Need drill advice for building a deck - corded vs cordless?

Hey folks, I'm building a deck in my backyard and I'm stuck on the drilling part. I need to drill pilot holes for the lag bolts that attach the ledger board to the house. My old corded drill just died (RIP), and I'm trying to decide between getting another corded one or going cordless. Budget is tight - trying to keep it under $100 if possible. What do you all recommend? I've got about 30 holes to drill through pressure-treated lumber into the house framing.

Carl, for deck work you're gonna want some serious torque. I do tile all day and I can tell you - cordless has come a long way, but for drilling into house framing through PT lumber? You need power. I'd go with a corded hammer drill if you can swing it. That pressure-treated stuff is tough, and you don't want your battery dying halfway through. Check out the Bauer corded hammer drill at Harbor Freight - usually around $60 and it'll get the job done. Just make sure you're using the right bits - get some carbide-tipped ones for treated wood.

Steve's right about the power, but as someone who's hung more drywall than I care to admit, I'll say this: cordless is SO much more convenient. If you're working on a deck, you're going to be moving around a lot. Dragging an extension cord around is a pain, especially if you're working at height. I switched to Ryobi cordless a few years back and never looked back. Their brushless drill/driver combo is often on sale for around $100. The batteries last forever on a single charge for drilling pilot holes. Just make sure you have a spare battery charging while you work!

Thanks both! This is helpful. Steve - I hadn't even considered a hammer drill function. Is that really necessary for wood? I thought that was just for concrete. Debbie - the cordless convenience does sound nice... but I'm worried about power. My old corded drill struggled with this kind of work sometimes. Maybe I should look for a corded hammer drill like Steve suggests, then save up for cordless later? Or is there a middle ground?

Hammer function isn't just for concrete - it helps drive through tough materials by adding impact. For PT lumber into house framing, it makes a difference. But Debbie's got a point about convenience. If you want a compromise, look for a corded DRILL (not hammer drill) with variable speed and good torque. The Skil 3-amp is around $40 and punches above its weight. Use sharp bits, go slow, let the drill do the work. And for god's sake, wear safety glasses - treated wood splinters are nasty.